So, I have posted previously about types of ink and options for paper. Here is another issue I ran into when I first started working with ink- What kind of brush should I use?

If you are doing traditional Sumi-e, your choice of brush is going to be obvious/ no brainer- the traditional Sumi-e bamboo or calligraphy brushes. According to the Yasutomo website, their popular calligraphy/ Sumi-e brushes are, …“made with a mix of natural or synthetic fibers.” It is unclear what exactly natural fibers the brush is made from (horse? goat? squirrel?) Some reviewers on the Yasutomo website opine that it’s goat but how can you really be sure? The other Sumi-e brush I have is made by Dick Blick. It is actually stamped “made in Japan” which somehow makes it feel more official. The specifications say it is made of goat hair. 

It looks like Winson & Newton also make a bamboo brush (Winsor & Newton’s Series 150 Bamboo Brush) but I have never used these before or have seen them in an art supply store. Their specifications recommend their use for Asian ink and watercolor paintings. 

To tell the truth, I don’t really use these brushes that much because I prefer to work with a smaller and finer brush. 

Since I was unsure what brushes to use for ink, I naturally gravitated toward brushes used for watercolor. 

I have used Royal & Langnickel’s Zen Series 73 brushes for five years now. These are nice synthetic brushes that can be used for watercolor, inks, and fluid acrylics. The quality isn’t too bad and they are still holding up after 5 years!

Earlier this year, I decided I wanted to upgrade my brush game so I bought about 5 Princeton Velvetouch brushes. These brushes are intended for watercolor, acrylic, and oil paints. (And, apparently, you can use these for ink too!) I have not been disappointed. According to the specifications, these brushes are a, “… blend of luxury synthetic filaments” with “…soft touch wood handles.”  I must say, all of this is true. They also come in a regular size and a mini size. I have the mini size brushes since they are convenient for travel and plein air but wouldn’t mind buying the regular size brushes. 

I think I’m going to stick with the Princeton Velvetouch brushes for now but I’m open to trying new watercolor brushes. 

Now that you know about the different kinds of ink you can use for drawing, your next question might be: Which paper should I use?

I had these questions when I first started drawing with ink and experimented with many, many, many different kinds of paper. I hope the summary below will save you a lot of time and money. 

I took an illustration class many years ago and asked the instructor what paper I should use with India ink. She was kind of dumbfounded by my question and recommended bristol board or mixed media paper. 

While these are certainly options, below are my recommendations. No matter what paper you choose, if you like to layer and create ink washes, I would recommend a thicker paper (140 LB / 300 GSM) and a paper that is made of more cotton than other fibers.

Watercolor Paper: Watercolor paper is my absolute favorite paper to use for ink drawing.  Watercolor paper comes in two different types: hot press and cold press. Cold press is more readily available at art and craft stores and the paper is  “toothy” and rough. Hot press, on the other hand, is smooth. It is harder to find and I would recommend going to an art supply store to buy hot press watercolor paper. I prefer to work with hot press watercolor because the surface is smooth and I like to start with a sketch. 

Bristol Paper: Bristol paper, sometimes called bristol board, is smooth and is a good choice for ink line drawings or using ink markers. Bristol paper comes in two types- smooth and vellum. Bristol smooth- is well, smooth. Bristol vellum has more of a toothy surface. Again, the quality may be different depending on what the bristol paper is made out of and the weight of the paper. 

Mixed Media Paper: Mixed media paper has a more toothier/rough surface than bristol paper. This may be a good choice if you don’t mind working with a toothier surface and like to create ink washes. Mixed media paper can be very thick (up to 350 lbs/570 GMS) and will not buckle with multiple layers and water. 

Sumi-e Paper (a.k.a. Rice Paper): Sometimes called rice paper, Sumi-e paper is also an option for both Sumi-e painting and calligraphy. The paper has a smooth side and a rough side. Calligraphers may prefer the smooth side while artists may prefer the rough side. Despite its name, it is not made of rice. Sumi-e paper paper tends to be thinner and smoother than other types of paper (40 lbs/ 80 gms).

If you are new to the art medium ink, you may not know there are different kinds of ink you can buy. Below are descriptions of inks you might encounter in the art supply store:

 India Ink:  India ink is a colored ink that was once used for writing, printing, and artwork (think Sumi-e paintings in China and Japan) and is now more commonly used for comics and graphic novels. Like traditional watercolors, India ink is transparent. An advantage to using India ink over traditional watercolors is that it dries quickly, is waterproof, and is more brilliant in color. Most India inks typically do not become activated when it comes into contact with water. (Note the use of the word most in the previous sentence. I have used some India ink pens that smudged and activated with water once they were dry.) India ink can be sold in bottles, pens, markers, and sticks.

 Acrylic Ink: Acrylic inks are made with fine art pigments. Acrylic inks are semi-opaque or opaque. Unlike acrylic paint or gouache solid in tubes, acrylic inks can become transparent and semi-opaque contingent on how much you dilute them. Acrylic inks, like acrylic paints, dry very quickly. Once dry, acrylic ink does not become activated when it comes in contact with water or another layer of acrylic ink. Acrylic ink can be sold in bottles, pens, or markers.

 Watercolor Ink: You may be asking yourself, at this point, what exactly is the difference between watercolor ink and traditional watercolors. Watercolor ink is a solution of dyes and pigments. Traditional watercolors are a mix of pigments, binders, and additives. Unlike India ink or acrylic ink, watercolor ink is transparent and will become activated once it comes in contact with water- even if it is dry. Note: I have only seen watercolor ink sold in bottles.

Calligraphy Ink: I’ve steered clear of calligraphy ink- assuming it was just for calligraphy. After some rigorous googling, there appears to be two mindsets with regard to calligraphy ink. There is one camp that believes calligraphy ink and India ink are one and the same. The other camp believes calligraphy ink should only be used for calligraphy and India ink is a poor substitute. Sumi (black) ink is made from kneading animal glue and soot that is produced by burning oil or pinewoods. Sumi ink is traditionally used for calligraphy and Japanese brush painting. Calligraphy ink may come in bottles or sticks. 

Walnut Ink: A natural alternative, walnut ink is a water-based made from the green husk surrounding the nut of walnuts. Walnut ink is lightfast but is not waterproof and may behave more like watercolor than India ink or acrylic ink. Generally, it is not Walnut ink comes in two colors- black or brown ink. It may be used for writing (calligraphy), painting, or on fabrics. You can buy this already made or make your own!

Inktense: Thought I would throw this Derwent product into the mix. Derwent makes water soluble pencils, sticks, and pans called Inktense. Inktense products distinguish themselves from Derwent’s watercolor pencils in that Inktense gives the artist’s work more vibrant colors. Inktense is a great option if you are on vacation or doing some outdoor plein air. Inktense can also be used on fabrics. (I’ve never tried this but it looks every interesting.) Inktense can be bought in pencils, sticks, and pans.